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Chain does not turn:

Chain brake engaged

Chain tension too tight

Burred drive links

Pinched bar groove

Chain off sprocket

Bar sprocket nose frozen

Adequate bar/chain lubricant

Debris in bar groove or sprocket

Chainsaw does not start:
Ignition switch off

Incorrect fuel mixture

Choke on or saw is flooded

Dirty air filter

Plug wire broken or off spark plug

Dirty or incorrect spark plug

Exhaust screen plugged

Cutting crookedly:

Low rakers* on one side

Cutter filed differently

Damage to raker* on one side of the chain

Uneven bar rails

Slow cutting:
Chain on backwards

Dull chain

Raker too high*

Clutch slipping

Bar groove too wide

* Rakers: Rakers are the projections that stick up between adjacent teeth to clear chips from the cut. Since the tops of the teeth slope backwards slightly, continued sharpening may drop the teeth so low that the blade rides on the rakers in the cut. This may prevent the teeth from biting even though they are perfectly sharp. If your saw chain has been filed a number of times and has reached a point where it just doesn’t seem to cut well, the rakers may be at fault.

At a speed of 53 miles per hour, four hours of saw running time means 200+ miles of chain passing over the bar. Attention to the condition of the chain and bar, plus frequent lubrication, will safeguard your equipment investment. In reduced wear alone, you'll more than pay for the oil you use.

Handy maintenance Chart

Check during a job. (Chain saw must be turned off)

·         Use plenty of bar and chain oil. Oil is cheaper than either a new bar or chain!

·         Remove the bar periodically and clean accumulated sawdust from the oil hole and bar groove. Turn the bar over regularly.

·         Tension the chain properly, just tight enough to be able to pull around the bar by hand. Check the tensioning frequently, but not while the chain is hot; wait until the chain is cool to the touch.

After each use

·         Clean Airfilter

·         Check for worn, broken, dull, stretched chain

·         Check for damages on cutting tooth, rakers, bumper and drive links.

20 hours
Turn the chain saw bars this allows even wear on both sides of the bar

Clean all the oil holes and the groove of the bar.

Check for burrs on either side of the top rails and file them off.

40 hours

Check bar rails are even with each other.

Check bar if gauge is worn

When necessary

Sharpen chain

After every two chain replacement

Replace drive sprocket systems after every two chains, or sooner.

Chainsaw Maintenance

1. Clean Airfilter

Unscrew filter from saw. If it is a nylon filter, rinse and soak in hot soapy water. Rinse well and dry thoroughly. Other non-nylon filters can be blown out with an air compressor. This should be done after each use for optimum upkeep

2. Sharpen Chain

The easiest way to learn to sharpen a chain yourself is by purchasing a file guide. First make sure to buy the file in the same size as your chain requires. The guide sets right on top of the chains tooth, and does not allow you to file too deep. Angles are also indicated on the file guide. Filing the chain at the correct angle and depth is extremely important, because if you file at the wrong angle or depth, the chain will be either too aggressive or not aggressive enough. Also, purchase a raker guide. This will allow you to file the rakers to the correct depth for the tooth. If filed too far, it can cause grabbing and kickback, while not enough will cause the chain to seem dull.

3. Change Fuel Filter

Remove fuel cap and empty tank if so desired. It is much easier to do on an emptied tank. With a small wire hook, fish fuel line out of the tank. The filter is at the end of the fuel line. Pull old filter off while securing fuel line in hand. This last step is very important, because if you let the fuel line fall back into the tank without the fuel filter on, it is extremely hard to retrieve it. Slide new fuel filter into place, and put back into tank. Refill with fuel and replace cap.

4. Blow Out Saw

While a saws main purpose is cutting wood, the creation of sawdust can be the biggest detriment to it. Sawdust can collect in every conceivable nook and cranny. After every use, blow out the saw with an air compressor.

5. Grease Tip of Bar

Purchase a pre-filled grease gun manufactured specifically for the tips of chainsaw bars. Oftentimes, when purchasing a new saw, one will be included. Place tip of grease gun in hole at tip of bar, and give a few pumps. When grease comes out the end of bar, enough has been used.

6. Replace Tip of Bars

Some bars are manufactured with replaceable tips. That way, when a tip blows, you can replace just the tip, not the whole bar. This is economical, especially if you go through quite a few. Take bar off saw, with a hammer and punch, pound out the rivet that holds the tip in place. When rivet is removed, pull old tip straight off. Before placing new tip on, make sure and clean out end of bar from accumulated junk. A small screwdriver or wire brush can be used for this step. Place new tip on, put new rivet that came with new tip on. Place bar with new tip and rivet on a hard object, (a vise can be used for this step) take a hammer and peen over end of rivet. If after placing new tip on, you realize that the bar is worn in a fashion that it is smaller, or narrower, than the new tip, carefully grind the new tip to match.

Reasons for Replacing a Bar

1. You have used a bar with a non-replaceable tip and the tip has blown.

2. Groove that the chain runs in wears out, causing sloppiness of the chain when saw is being operated.

3. Bar has developed chips causing chain to jump off.

Chainsaw FAQ